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Top Gear

Thanks to BBC driving program Top Gear's special in which they traveled the length of Vietnam by motorbike, that trip has gained popularity. The Hai Van Pass that divides Hue to the north and Danang to the south is known to be especially great.

People who bike all or part of Vietnam tend to call it one of their best trips ever. I didn't want to totally miss out on biking Vietnam, but wasn't game for doing it myself. The solution was an "easy rider" tour. A lot of these shops have popped up recently, in which safe-driving local guides on comfortable, well-maintained bikes will take you and your luggage anywhere in the country, on or off the beaten path.


A fellow traveller arriving at my hostel in Hoi An by easy rider recommended a company, so I booked a day trip from Danang to Hue. Hieou picked me up on his 125cc Honda after a breakfast of steaming pho and we hit the road. We stopped every 30min or so for photos, snacks, and to take in the sights. He pulled over and pointed me towards a towering green mountain with its peak covered in clouds. That was the "Pass of Ocean Mist," so up we climbed into the mist.


Top Gear host Jeremy Clarkson called the pass "a deserted ribbon of perfection--one of the best coast roads in the world." While a new tunnel below cuts down on some traffic, these days the pass is anything but deserted, but truly an awesome road to cruise on a bike.




At the top of the pass were remains of American bunkers from the war. Bunkers with views like this.


He's a Hue local and been driving these tours for 12 years so he offered up tips and stories at each stop. We turned off Highway 1 to cruise through a local fishing village sandwiched between ocean and those bright green rice paddies.



Down on the other side we stopped for an excellent seafood lunch right in the water, with live seafood on display out front. A mixed seafood noodle dish was delicious, followed by a generous serving of barbecue clams, and topped off with sweet fresh pineapple and a view just as sweet for dessert.




After lunch we visited Elephant Springs, a series of small rocky waterfalls ideal for jumping, swimming, and sliding into. Very popular with Vietnamese tourists, the place was packed and families were out with the barbecues. I chilled in a hammock with views of the neighboring national park mountains in the distance.

After a seven hour day, we pulled in to historic Hue. The weather was perfect save for a downpour the last half hour, but he had excellent rain gear for me from head to toe. My hands and nose got wet, that's it.

My guide's English wasn't the best, but he made it a great scenic trip. Some people will hire these guys for multi day (10+) trips to see the sites, countryside, and secluded villages. It's a great alternative way to see the country.

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