The state of Penang is located in northwestern Malaysia, one half sits on the mainland with the other on an island just off the coast. Most well known on the island is the UNESCO heritage city of George Town. Established in 1786 as a trading post on the Straits of Malacca and named after King George III, today it's a nice place to wander, eat, and explore.
George Town's cuisine alone is worthy of a visit and could fill a dissertation. My hostel host sat me down with a brochure full of all the famous local street food and where to find each. It's almost overwhelming, and even fruitless to chase down every single one; I found it hard to go wrong at any place with a decent crowd. I paid a visit to Little India, tucked into fresh seafood, raided the dim sum cart under a ceiling of Chinese lanterns, and savored street fare from vendors who were just a joy to watch. One rainy day just meant we got a little wet hopping from one meal to the next.
One of the most unique was cendol, a refreshing dessert ideal for hot sunny days. It starts with a mound of freshly shaved ice, topped with green colored pandan-flavored worm-like jelly, red beans, coconut milk, and palm sugar.
All this happens in a blur, as their team of two pumps out one after another nonstop. Street art of a boy enjoying the treat overlooks the stall and the steady stream of some 50 eager customers who block traffic in this narrow alley.
I really had my hopes up for lok lok, where you toss a variety of skewered goods into boiling water to cook. Unfortunately boiling fried things doesn't make them any crispier, and color didn't translate to flavor for what I tried...not really my cup of tea.
Second to food, George Town is know for its plentiful street art. Roughly following the street art trail was a good way to get my bearings and explore town. Some are just paintings, others combine 3D objects; sometimes a double take is needed to figure out which.
A collection of over 50 wrought iron rod sculptures tell the history of different streets and spots around town.
Another spot to spend some time was the clan jetties. These were initially used just for offloading boats in the late 19th century, but shacks and then houses were later built on stilts along the piers, and are still scenic residences today. They still hold the original family names that started each: Yeoh Jetty, Lee Jetty, Chew Jetty, and so on.
Penang has a great cheap public bus system that covers most of the island. One took me to the northwestern corner where Penang National Park sits, a quiet reprieve from the hustle and bustle around town. One of the world's smallest national parks, it has two jungle trails that lead out to beaches with monkeys, giant lizards, and turtles. All for free admission, too.
The park is also home to one of a few meromictic lakes in the world, meaning salt and fresh water layers do not mix. Impressive on paper, but a bit underwhelming (and dry) in person.
I've more or less stopped checking the forecast over here because it will be hot, it will be humid, and it may or may not rain for a little bit. But the park HQ had a low tech weather station that was right on the money.
Located in the heart of Georgetown is Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling, which has become known as the "Street of Harmony." Starting at the intersection with Church Street, there's St. George's Anglican Church. A short stroll away is the Taoist Goddess of Mercy Temple, the Hindu Sri Mahamariamman Temple, the Kapitan Keling Mosque, the Taoist Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple, and Lebuh Acheh Mosque, all within a 1km stretch. Scattered in between are ancestral Chinese clan houses from the early 1900s. In the evening a few Chinese ancestral celebrations setup tents on the street with live music and traditional puppet shows, backed by the mosque's evening call to prayer.
Late Indian president A.P.J. Abdul Kalam once strolled the Street of Harmony, which inspired his poem, "The Great City of Harmony":
A cozy hostel, peaceful strolls, a happy stomach, and some great people--both locals and travellers--made Penang a great place to stay awhile and enjoy.
George Town's cuisine alone is worthy of a visit and could fill a dissertation. My hostel host sat me down with a brochure full of all the famous local street food and where to find each. It's almost overwhelming, and even fruitless to chase down every single one; I found it hard to go wrong at any place with a decent crowd. I paid a visit to Little India, tucked into fresh seafood, raided the dim sum cart under a ceiling of Chinese lanterns, and savored street fare from vendors who were just a joy to watch. One rainy day just meant we got a little wet hopping from one meal to the next.
One of the most unique was cendol, a refreshing dessert ideal for hot sunny days. It starts with a mound of freshly shaved ice, topped with green colored pandan-flavored worm-like jelly, red beans, coconut milk, and palm sugar.
All this happens in a blur, as their team of two pumps out one after another nonstop. Street art of a boy enjoying the treat overlooks the stall and the steady stream of some 50 eager customers who block traffic in this narrow alley.
I really had my hopes up for lok lok, where you toss a variety of skewered goods into boiling water to cook. Unfortunately boiling fried things doesn't make them any crispier, and color didn't translate to flavor for what I tried...not really my cup of tea.
Second to food, George Town is know for its plentiful street art. Roughly following the street art trail was a good way to get my bearings and explore town. Some are just paintings, others combine 3D objects; sometimes a double take is needed to figure out which.
A collection of over 50 wrought iron rod sculptures tell the history of different streets and spots around town.
Another spot to spend some time was the clan jetties. These were initially used just for offloading boats in the late 19th century, but shacks and then houses were later built on stilts along the piers, and are still scenic residences today. They still hold the original family names that started each: Yeoh Jetty, Lee Jetty, Chew Jetty, and so on.
Penang has a great cheap public bus system that covers most of the island. One took me to the northwestern corner where Penang National Park sits, a quiet reprieve from the hustle and bustle around town. One of the world's smallest national parks, it has two jungle trails that lead out to beaches with monkeys, giant lizards, and turtles. All for free admission, too.
The park is also home to one of a few meromictic lakes in the world, meaning salt and fresh water layers do not mix. Impressive on paper, but a bit underwhelming (and dry) in person.
Located in the heart of Georgetown is Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling, which has become known as the "Street of Harmony." Starting at the intersection with Church Street, there's St. George's Anglican Church. A short stroll away is the Taoist Goddess of Mercy Temple, the Hindu Sri Mahamariamman Temple, the Kapitan Keling Mosque, the Taoist Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple, and Lebuh Acheh Mosque, all within a 1km stretch. Scattered in between are ancestral Chinese clan houses from the early 1900s. In the evening a few Chinese ancestral celebrations setup tents on the street with live music and traditional puppet shows, backed by the mosque's evening call to prayer.
Late Indian president A.P.J. Abdul Kalam once strolled the Street of Harmony, which inspired his poem, "The Great City of Harmony":
I heard Song of Unity in the streets
Of harmony in the island!
Ancient city of Penang
I walked and walked every step,
People of Malay, Hindus, Muslims, Chinese, Christians
Together walked with me,
With Pride and peace.
The bell of St. George Church,
Gave the glad tidings with a message,
Forgive the human failings
Give and give the hope of success.
I entered the Kuan Yin temple
With fragrance, the message radiating,
Remove "I" and "Me"!
That will eliminate human ego.
What a beautiful reception
With a great music of
Nadaswaram recital in the
Sri Mahamariamman temple;
The temple gave a message
All places are our own, people of universe
Are our kith and kin.
The Teochew temple gave me a smile
With a message, if you remove "ego"
Hatred will disappear;
In the great mosque participated in prayer
With a Quranic recitation
"Oh Almighty lead us the path of righteousness"
The Yap Kongsi temple gave me
The welcome song "eliminate harted,
Violence will disappear."
In another temple Kho Kongsi led us to the path
Remove the violence in mind, peace in life will be filled with.
The Acheh Mosque gave us the message
Message of removing the pain
of fellow human beings!
This is Almighty's Command!
When I completed my pilgrimage
The streets of Harmony of Penang.
Presented an integrated spiritual centre
With message to the Universe.
Every human being will give and give
The best of human societies will be born.
A cozy hostel, peaceful strolls, a happy stomach, and some great people--both locals and travellers--made Penang a great place to stay awhile and enjoy.
