Skip to main content

3.14159

Anyone who goes to Chiang Mai typically makes it 150km northwest to Pai as well. The journey was just over three hours, two of which were filled with 762 curves. Here's a piece of the route:


It wasn't as bad as expected; the worst part was the sound of three others in the van getting sick...that's not uncommon and the driver was well prepared with car sick bags. Thankfully my stomach did fine.

There were non-stop scenic views along the way; this ranks up there with driving Big Sur, Copper Harbor, and Texas Hill Country.

The guesthouse I found was situated a few blocks off of the main drag, on the river with views of the foothills where cattle grazed. It's an open air bungalow with no AC, mosquito nets, and hammocks on the shaded deck. It's quiet here with just a few other guests from America, Germany, Austria, Australia, England. All for just $3.14. That's right, a night in Pai for $pi.



Pai is a much sleepier town than Chiang Mai with lots of backpackers, tons of guesthouses, and killer views. It's small enough that you meet people on the bus who you recognize at the night market, bump into at a waterfall, and share a drink with over live music at night.

The night market was a bit of a change...there was Thai food, but lots of western food too for all the westerners that live and visit here: lasagna, pizza, fried chicken, etc. I tried a Burmese salad which was excellent. Also-a dreadlocks accessory and repair stand, as there's a decent customer base in town.

A smaller town means Pai is a reasonable place to rent a motorbike/scooter. A friend said doing so "is freedom," and I couldn't explain it better. Freedom from tuk tuk's and walking everywhere and not being able to see something because it's a little out of the way. Nothing beats driving out of town, stopping to take in the views, and visiting a roadside stand for fresh lychee fruit. Just outside of this small mountain town are lots of great adventures:

In 2008, a farmer's land unexpectedly split from an earthquake, rendering it useless for farming. He opened The Land Split up to visitors, where you can hike through the small canyon that was created.


After a short hike through it, you are served fresh goodies from their garden on a donation basis: peanuts, potatoes, papaya, banana chips with roselle jam, banana, tamarind, roselle juice and wine. We sat and enjoyed them among the trees they were picked from.


There are a number of waterfalls around Pai, accessible by hiking or scooter. The highlight may have been a 7km (each way) hike through the woods which was rewarded with a three-tiered refreshing, secluded waterfall.


Pai Canyon exceeded all expectations. A mini-Grand Canyon in some ways, you hike along an impressive ridge with incredible views down into the canyon with farmland and mountains in the distance.



Some farmers built a bamboo walking bridge 10ft above the ground, allowing visitors to wander through rice terraces to the sound of cowbells in the distance. We got there as water buffalo were passing through to feed.



One of the best ways to wind down a day of adventure was taking in the mountains from a hammock as the sun wet down, watching a storm roll in, grabbing dinner at the night market, and listening to talent from all across the world at an open mic night under the full moon. I like it here, but it's time to move on.

Popular posts from this blog

Phong Nha

As soon as I read about Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, I booked arrangements to see the impressive caves there and planned the rest of my time in Vietnam around it. I stayed outside the national park at Easy Tiger which is everything a hostel should be. Clean, comfortable, and consistently sold out. Excellent food and genuine friendly service. There's a pool, plenty of outdoor seating, and dozens of hammocks out back. Every morning they enlighten travellers to the various tours and activities in and around the national park. They won't push anything on you and will even advise against a few tours that are better explored on your own. They don't rent motorbikes or sell bus tickets because plenty of local shops down the street do. Staff encourage guests to explore their personal favorite restaurants and hidden spots and will sit down to map out a day of adventure with you. They train and hire locals. They want to share the wealth of tourism with everyone that was here fir...

Top Gear

Thanks to BBC driving program Top Gear's special in which they traveled the length of Vietnam by motorbike, that trip has gained popularity. The Hai Van Pass that divides Hue to the north and Danang to the south is known to be especially great. People who bike all or part of Vietnam tend to call it one of their best trips ever. I didn't want to totally miss out on biking Vietnam, but wasn't game for doing it myself. The solution was an "easy rider" tour. A lot of these shops have popped up recently, in which safe-driving local guides on comfortable, well-maintained bikes will take you and your luggage anywhere in the country, on or off the beaten path. A fellow traveller arriving at my hostel in Hoi An by easy rider recommended a company, so I booked a day trip from Danang to Hue. Hieou picked me up on his 125cc Honda after a breakfast of steaming pho and we hit the road. We stopped every 30min or so for photos, snacks, and to take in the sights. He pulled...

Muddy Confluence

That's what the city's name translates to, as it sits at the junction of the Klang and Gombak Rivers, but I think "Kuala Lumpur" has a nicer ring to it. After a couple hour delay at the small, humble Luang Prabang airport, I landed uneventfully at the complete opposite--Kuala Lumpur, home to one of the region's most impressive airports. A fancy bus brought me into the city center on smooth highways (full of toll booths). One of many metro lines then brought me to Bukit Bintang district where I was greeted by 7-11's familiar green and orange beacon. My hostel entrance was at the back of an Indian restaurant, which provided free breakfast of roti canai. It's a common Malay breakfast of flat bread and curry, and certainly one of my favorites. When I woke up at 4:30am, freezing from the A/C just inches away from me, they were already pounding out bread dough for the day. My first full day in Malaysia was the king's birthday. They have an interesting r...