"Koh" means island in Thai, and they've got heaps of them here. Koh Phagnan hosts 20,000 each full moon for its famous beach party; Koh Tao offers world famous scuba diving, cheaper than anywhere else in the world; Phuket and the Phi Phi Islands are party central. All of these host beautiful, and often crowded, beaches, but I was after something different.
My first stop was Koh Samui-well developed but a bit calmer than the other big ones. I stayed at a chill place right on the beach, run by an Irish/Thai couple, and extended family lives and works onsite. They knew everyone's name and were hospitable but not overbearing. Every evening the owner gathered new guests around a map for an introduction to the island. This place had pretty much everything you need: they served up good food steps away from the sand, and you eat looking out onto the ocean; comfortable beds in cool air con; spotless grounds with someone always cleaning; bamboo lounges on the deck that are just perfect to sit and take in the ocean from.
I was disappointed to find that exploring this island on your own pretty much requires a motorbike. This is one of the worst places to ride, so I wandered around in search of a bicycle to no avail. I did some limited exploring by foot and found what "low season" is all about. I had a lookout, a beachside restaurant where your toes sit in the sand, and a larger nearby beach nearly to myself.
Samui was nice, but I was most excited for Ang Thong National Marine Park, a 42-island archipelago a couple hours to the west of Samui. While the movie The Beach was filmed in well traveled Kho Phi Phi, these undeveloped islands are what inspired it. And they're still undeveloped!
I booked a day tour to get there, including breakfast, snorkeling, lunch, and some short hikes. When the tour went back to Samui, I stayed behind on Wa Tu Lab Island. The national park has a few bungalows and tents for hire, just outside of the headquarters and ranger housing. I opted for a spacious $6 tent in good condition, steps away from the jungle and beach in each direction. I've never seen a campground like this.
There were a couple bungalows occupied and a few other campers-including an Israeli and a UW Badger couple. Otherwise, just a team of park rangers and staff that live there (three weeks on/one week off). This was my first Thailand National Park and I was impressed all around. No litter, decent food at the cafeteria, friendly staff, well kept grounds and facilities, and a first for the trip: no stray dogs or taxis honking to get your business.
This is one the most beautiful places I have ever been, and it only got better when the day's last boat disappeared. After the sun went down, the head ranger picked his guitar and sang from the best living quarters onsite-an ocean-view bungalow perched on a cliff high above the sea.
The mornings were full of sound. A steady chorus of cicadas with birds chiming in, the deep howl of monkeys in the distance, as the Thai chatter of rangers grew and the kitchen came to life. While the grounds were still empty, a few dozen dusky langur monkeys were out and about--in trees, chomping on leaves, running across the sand, drinking out of the fountain, and just hanging out. One little guy was standing all by himself. Then a big one ran over to him, and they hugged. I could watch them all day.
In addition to white sandy beaches, there are a few excellent hikes. One brings you 500m above sea level on steep steps as monkeys swing through the trees just a few meters away. Viewpoints along the way got better and better until the top, which was truly one of the most incredible views I've ever taken in.
Another one goes up a steep incline with climbing ropes to assist, ending in a massive cave you can walk all the way through. Giant stalactites of different colors and huge boulders to climb across were out of range of the churn of boat motors. Every few steps I would stop and stand in awe.
A third one was short with a sweet view of a lagoon with emerald green water I'd only seen in photographs.
When I thought it couldn't get any better, an unmarked trail not on the map went straight up a steep ridge and down the other side to a secluded beach where there were four Thais living, as well as one monk-the only one in Ang Thong.
They welcomed us over and sat us down for coffee, tea, and snacks. We swapped English for Thai words and had conversation best we could, with lots of smiles and laughing. Kubasak, the monk, explained he lived in a cave that he would like to show us. Was something lost in translation?
When I thought it couldn't get any better, an unmarked trail not on the map went straight up a steep ridge and down the other side to a secluded beach where there were four Thais living, as well as one monk-the only one in Ang Thong.
They welcomed us over and sat us down for coffee, tea, and snacks. We swapped English for Thai words and had conversation best we could, with lots of smiles and laughing. Kubasak, the monk, explained he lived in a cave that he would like to show us. Was something lost in translation?
Up we went, climbing the side of a cliff (even in flip flops he had no problem at all), til sure enough, above the final ledge was a small cave with his sleeping pad, book, and candles with the best of views.
He sleeps and meditates here, and it's easy to see why. The air was calm up there, far away from any worry. He repeatedly said he had a "happy heart," and I could tell he meant it. We bird watched (spotted an oriental pied hornbill), chatted, and just sat in silence taking it all in for a couple hours. He pulled out his voice recorder and played a track of him teaching with American Indian music (from YouTube) in the background. Low fidelity, but meditative.
We thanked each other many times and departed as "phuuan" (friends), hoping to meet again soon, and we hitched a ride back on a longtail boat that had just delivered supplies.
I really wanted to understand the whole situation here-who were these people and what brought them there? What's the arrangement with the national park? Is he there to teach them, or are they there to care for him? I wasn't able to get the full story in English, but I'll never forget that day.
I really wanted to understand the whole situation here-who were these people and what brought them there? What's the arrangement with the national park? Is he there to teach them, or are they there to care for him? I wasn't able to get the full story in English, but I'll never forget that day.
After two nights of some of the best camping I've done, I caught a tour boat back to Samui. Before departing, Kubasak made his daily trip to pick up his food for the day, and invited us to eat with him. I regretfully had to decline.