I've come to find out you can get pretty much anywhere you please with a variety of options, it's just a choice of how much you want to pay in comfort, money, and time. But transportation around southeast Asia is interesting, that's for sure.
I like walking as much as I can. You end up wandering through markets and alleys, taking in the sights and sounds that would otherwise be missed.
And it's so easy to stop when some street food looks so good. But, even in the shade a walk quickly gets exhausting in this heat and humidity. If it wasn't for fresh fruit and and cold fruit shakes, I'm not sure I could handle it.
Flying Singapore Air across the pond was luxurious and excellent. A quick hop from Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh City on budget carrier Air Asia was less exciting, but cost just $50.
In the cities, taxis are everywhere. I found some in Bangkok that were willing to use the meter and they took the most direct route, but that doesn't always happen. They also like to honk at passerby as if that will give them the sudden urge to ride a taxi. In Ho Chi Minh City, even some locals steer clear of taxis. Of all the taxi companies running around, two have a solid reputation. But I've read reports of their being fake lookalikes that take you and your wallet for a ride.
Thailand has Uber! I've used it a few times, and also use as a sanity check to know if a taxi's or tuk tuk's price is somewhat reasonable (what they quote tourists never is). Grab is like Uber, but just for SE Asia. Sometimes a bit cheaper and just as easy to use.
Officially...these ride sharing services do not have the full support of the law. Unofficially...they are widely used and the driver may ask you to sit in the passenger seat to avoid looking like a taxi, and avoid stopping near a tuk tuk or taxi. So you'll never see an Uber window sticker here.
In Vietnam these apps are legally used, but they really shine as Uber Moto and Grab Bike. Works the same but instead of a car, a motorbike shows up with a green (Grab) or blue (Uber) jacket and helmet, with an extra helmet for you.
You hop on the back and experience Ho Chi Minh City traffic from within. A 15 minute Grab Bike ride cost 55 cents. Motorbikes are everywhere, and they go across, between, against, and occasionally with traffic. Sidewalks are fair game too, if there aren't barricades in place. In their Vietnam special, Jeremy Clarkson of TopGear said, "the cities in Vietnam are a seething cauldron of barely organized chaos." Yup.
Motorbike taxis seemed to be more of a locals thing in Bangkok, where they might qualify as an extreme sport. I felt more comfortable riding them in Vietnam.
I loved Bangkok's skytrain and underground metro-a couple different systems with two lines each, they were cheap, cold, easy to use, and super clean. And it never left me wondering if a train was coming, where it would go, how long it would take, and how much it would cost. I've come to learn those things can't be expected or trusted with other modes of getting around.
Tuk tuks may be worth trying once, but seem to mostly exist for overcharging and scamming tourists, e.g. I was once quoted 250 baht and got him down to 80 baht. You can always walk away. They may try bringing you to their friend's shop or an "official" travel agent, hoping to get a kickback from your purchase.
Decent buses with A/C run between just about every city. When I walked into the Bangkok bus terminal, I had over 30 bus companies and destinations to choose from. Once they depart, when and where they stop is something I still haven't gotten used to. Locals would hop on and off at unmarked spots. When leaving Khao Sok National Park, I made my way to the same stop where I got off a few days prior. Route 401 is well traveled, but there was little more than a sign indicating the bus stop. About six buses come through per day, and if they have a rider to drop off, they'll certainly stop. But otherwise, (apparently) you need to be on the side of the road to wave them down. Uninformed, I was sitting out of the rain in a small shelter, along with a few pickup truck drivers hanging out to catch customers coming in by bus. I spotted a bus coming, but then it kept on going...it was long gone before I could even grab my bag and stand up. Before I knew it, a driver was in his truck calling me to come over quick. "Where? How much?" I asked. "No worry, come fast. We catch bus."
My first ever experience with a sleeper bus was from Saigon up into the mountains to the beautiful town of Dalat. It started with a shuttle bus from the bus company's shop to the bus station...we climbed into a 14 passenger van, but my dad was #15. After a moment they conjured up a tiny stool, plopped it in the very narrow aisle for him to sit on, then packed in luggage all around us. 20 minutes later we stopped on the side of the road and transferred to the bus itself. Upon boarding we received bags for our shoes, which were neatly stored in a cubby behind our seats. The seats (two levels of three front-to-back rows) recline way back, but you won't be stretching straight out if you're taller than 5'8" or so.
Pitstops were at the bus company owned restaurants and whenever the driver felt like it, which can mean a bunch of trees on the side of the road. We arrived in Dalat almost two hours earlier than quoted (5 instead of 7 hours)...that seemed backwards to me.
An extensive state-run rail network connects the length of Thailand. For 40 cents I took a bare bones 2 hour train to the old capitol city of Ayutthaya. When it rained, we got a little wet.
For $25USD I took a 12 hour night train north from Ayutthaya to Chiang Mai, another back down to Bangkok, a third to the islands down south, and yet another back to Bangkok. Seats fold down in the evening to give a pair of bunk beds. Comfortable, ice cold, and saves on a night of accommodation. I like them.
Songthaew translates to "two benches," and that's exactly what they are in the back of a modified pickup truck. Roughly fixed price within the core of a city, you hop on, and typically wait for it to fill up with other riders if it's not already moving. These were particularly obnoxious on Koh Samui, where they would honk at anyone walking to get another rider, just like taxis and tuk tuks elsewhere. I've had them stop to see friends, buy breakfast, and detour to pickup/dropoff a 50kg bag of rice.
I asked a police officer where taxis come to....he had a lengthy discussion with his partner in Thai. First he was going to call one, but then had me follow him to his own truck, and drove me back into town through a downpour, conversing with his limited English (which was miles better than my few Thai words). They are severely underpaid, so I insisted he take the fare I otherwise would've paid to a songthaew driver. He was grateful, and I was grateful to not walk five miles in the rain.
I've spent some time on the water as well...river ferry crossings can be as cheap as 4 baht.
On the islands they have car ferries, tour boats, speed boats, and longtail boats. Once you're on an island, some ferries conveniently cost almost double to get back to the mainland.
Longtail boats are long wooden vessels with a car engine thrown on the back which is steered by a 12ft pole with a propeller on the end. This is what got us around Ratchaprap Lake. Our guide would the cut the engine as we glided towards the shore to spot wildlife with the limestone peaks towering above.
In Vietnam, boats have eyes. They are said to help ward off sea monsters and bring good luck to those on board.
The heart of the Mekong Delta in south Vietnam is flooded daily with tourists, but that didn't stop us from enjoying a rowboat ride through a narrow section of river, shaded by palms on both sides.
When heading to our homestay after exploring the Delta, our bus driver left us with his friend who took us down to his boat on the river. Just as the sun was setting, we scooted down the river on our longtail as bats skimmed the surface hunting for dinner. The sky turned glorious shades of blue and pink, and we arrived in darkness to what would be one of the best meals I've had here.
In Hoi An, a group of university students run free bicycle tours-not for money, but to improve their English. Most are studying tourism, some others just know that learning English will put them a step ahead in any job they land. Our group of three was paired with three enthusiastic tour guides. We caught a ferry to a small village that hasn't felt the tourism surge, where we got to see what daily life was like, visit locals' homes, a family temple, and learn Vietnamese culture.
The girls informed us they have only been doing this for two months, still have to take a test to officially join the group, and were doubting their English. However we were very impressed and they'll make great full time tour guides after school.
Especially on the islands, you can find Hong Thong (Thai whiskey) for sale on the side of the road. But don't drink it! It's actually a bottle of gasoline for your motorbike.
